NUART Festival's triumphant return to Chengdu, China

Two years ago, during the National Day holiday, I went to Chengdu, China, for a music festival that our friend Kristen helped put together. It was called NUART Fest. I wrote about the experience here. It really blew my mind, because it reminded me so much of all the great outdoor Chicago street fests I used to attend. Almost perfectly mirroring them. Kristen said she had no idea what they were like. I’d never really experienced anything like this in China, and I left insanely impressed at how it was all ran, down to the timing, execution, and general vibe. The main stage was outside two years ago, and curious couples poked their heads out, some danced, some were a bit miffed their entry-way was taken up by beer-holding randoms. Overall, the experience was amazing.

When National Day loomed last year, my plan was to come back for this. Sadly, it got cancelled at the last minute. While in Indonesia, I was readying a tour with Generacion Suicida. I had just gotten over a bout of food poisoning from the Drinking Boys and Girls Choir tour, finding myself very anxious, and feeling very unhealthy. Upon returning to Guangzhou, I got the news that NUART was on for it’s fourth year this October holiday. I made a judgement call based on my exhaustion levels and general health, that this would be a much better call. There’s something else too, and I’ll tell you about it in a hot minute.

I arrived, and once again felt immediately at home in Chengdu. This city, I often liken it to the “Yogyakarta of China”…very laid back, bustling with art and music, but very affordable still. It doesn’t have quite as much going on as Beijing and Shanghai, but it’s proximity keeps a bit of that at bay. Tours come here, often, and they almost always cruise over to neighboring Chongqing, a quick 90 minute train ride.

Kiddo dance party!

Since my last visit, NU Space has expanded. The second, much bigger location, lies on the exact opposite end of the street. This just so happens to be perfect for a “second stage” of sorts, which they broke apart electronic acts, comedy, and performances for at the smaller space. It wasn’t any more of a jaunt than your typical festival, having to dodge swarms of people on an already busy eating street. The whole thing was lined with art, crafts, beer, delicious cupcakes and small bits from the vendors that would already have been there anyway.

Art in motion

Thus began a three day, beer, coffee, and spicy noodle soaked jaunt across Kui Xing Lou Jie that included a mess of excellent artists from across the P.R.C. Being impossible to even try to capture everything due to staggered stage-times, I hopped from place to place, capturing old friends in White+, Duck Fight Goose, and Die Chiwawa Die! Discovering acts I’d never heard of like “The Romp”, as well as newer Chengdu jams I never caught before, like The Or and Soniclave, who I caught in the Dirty Fingers / Lonely Leary run weeks before. It was awesome to see Shao again. His new record is out now, and you should buy it.

One particular scrappy newcomer who are still in university called “Lonely Travel” really piqued my interest, and I can’t wait to catch them again. It was sort of a standout “a-ha” moment for me that Chengdu is alive and well, considering Hiperson had similar beginnings. Weeks ago, I had a very enlightening conversation with Liang Yi and Herve from Stolen. They spoke about having strange DIY shows in boxing matches, and atop a mountain. There’s new media endeavors here. A burgeoning electronic scene, with multiple new spaces opening the last year or so. People are excited. It’s a stark contrast from what I hear about Beijing these days, and what seems to be an exodus for many, over to Shanghai.

On top of this expertly executed, no doubt daunting-to-plan lineup including vast swathes of the current Chinese independent scenes, there were after parties each day. I only made it to TAG for a single whiskey sour (made with fucking Egg White, by the way) before I had to call it a day. Shao played an excellent live set earlier in the night anyway. Memories of exhaustion from the windy city lingered in my head. It’s tough as hell to hit every aspect of a three day festival and not end the week completely depleted on all fronts.

The kids are alright. Chengdu is alive and well, my friends. NUART Fest’s 4th incarnation is a sorely needed, extremely well executed gold mine of hard work nestled on the outskirts of Tibet in Sichuan province. A deep round of applause should be given to everyone involved, as this is a vivid reminder of just how great things can be if you have good people on the helm. You are champions, as far as I’m concerned, and I know I’m not alone.

Below are photos of how some of this all went down.

More on Chengdu very soon. Be good.

-Yingling

Duck Fight Goose

Angry Navel

Bohemian Betyars

吴卓玲

The Or

thruoutin

Dream Can

Sonicave

WHITE+

Shao

Farewell, Dongbei! 3 months in China, Japan, and Indonesia

3 months ago, in what was either the dumbest, or best decision ever, I quit my job. The jury is still out on that one. Trust me, in the grand scheme of things, I really didn't want to leave Harbin, China. It was probably the most comfortable I have been in years, despite an insanely brutal winter, bad air, and questionable surroundings for my health. However, I went there with goals, I hit them, and it was time to get on the road for a while and see what happens. I'd set up a loose schedule, to tour with a few of my favorite bands on my way to Indonesia. The plan was to then settle into Yogyakarta, in central Java, and try to get my shit together for some sort of long haul filming excursions. This is how it began. These are largely unedited, tired, hung-over dispatches from the road, written hours after they happened, so please excuse some strange spoutings. (By the way, you can find links to all of these bands at the bottom of this page. Have a listen, and support them if you like it!)

Day one. Hiperson (海朋森) at NUTS Club, Chongqing. It's been five years since my last trek in the face-melting, crazy city just a few hours from Chengdu. A return to the beginning, really, when I was first blown away by their opening set for P.K.14 back in 2013. Their new material is great, and they say they've now got enough for a new LP. I got a taste of this last year at the Maybe Mars showcase, but they're tighter now, more confident. I love this band. Thank You, Hiperson. It's really meant so much to watch you grow all these years. What a perfect start to this thing. Next stop, Osaka, Japan.

Blond New Half. Namba Bears green room. Osaka, Japan. I am very lucky that these maniacs play like twenty gigs a month in Kansai when I come here. They will be featured in the long overdue Episode 2 of The World Underground. In fact, they were one of my favorite parts of that trip so many years ago. They still rule. I'll focus on new material for both them and Hiperson. Osaka is spectacular, and if you are in Japan it'd be foolish to not spend a good chunk of time here for so many reasons. Don't think about it too much. Just do it. Tonight, Blond New Half play "Ooh La La" in Kyoto, and I'm heading to the train station now! Giddy up!

After this, I somehow got lucky enough to get a Chinese tourist visa processed in Osaka. It was a dice roll, as the few stories I could find informed me I should have a Japanese work visa, but, in the end, it worked out.

Flat Sucks. Namba Bears. Osaka, Japan. I awoke a bit salty I missed METZ the previous day, and decided I was going to a random show. I picked a venue, headed out. Japan is spectacular for many reasons, but one is that you can just choose a gig, and it's probably going to be, at least, entertaining. At best, mind-blowing. Flat Sucks are kick-ass punk via Kyoto. I'd never heard of them. Between sets, I read about Bourdain's suicide. What a deep loss. I wasn't really handling it too well on the last band, so I drunkenly asked if I could say something. Got on the mic, and a kid jumped on stage and translated. Rad. I told them Japan changed Bourdain's life. I asked them to shout cheers. I poured beer on the floor. I don't think most of them understood still, but it didn't matter. It was good. It's time to roll extra hard for Anthony Bourdain.

Zhu Wenbo and Zhao Cong. The odds of us meeting this week, at this place, are quite remarkable. I met Zhu Wenbo five years ago at the now defunct XP Club in Beijing. He began an experimental night every Tuesday way back in D22, and continued it in XP, until it closed. He then brought it to an underpass, made it a tape label. He remembered that night at XP. Zhu and Zhao performed unique low-key sound pieces. Mizutama, 竹下勇馬, and 中田粥 held a collaboration in the main room. They put bits into a suitcase and brought it outside. FIGYA's small child, she hit it around. Their kid is always in the room, adding to the performances. All here, in this off the radar experimental space I always try to visit when I go to Osaka. China always wiggles its way back in somehow. Thank You, folks. Always a pleasure.

THE SHOKKMAN. Hard Rain. Osaka, Japan. Wild speed-freak punk rock! This was a "rest day", which means going to a show anyway but only recording audio and taking photos. Another random gig I had no idea what to expect out of, aside from seeing a few Youtube videos. I arrived to find my sound recorder's memory card was full, and I didn't have my back-up. CURSES! Happens at least once per trip. Never any sense in beating myself up over it, as nothing could be done. Blindly impressed once again, and a hell of a thing for a lazy Sunday night. Tonight, the final show, and my last night in Japan! Blond New Half & three others at my new favorite jam in Osaka : Sengoku Daitouryou! Let's roll.

鮫肌尻子とダイナマイト (Samehada Shiriko & Dynamite) 
Japan, Blond New Half, old and new friends...Thank You. Always difficult to write a takeaway to this country that doesn't involve sounding like a lunatic fanboy, so I won't even try. I love you. Now, a long trek to Guangzhou, China, to meet a Hedgehog.

Thank You, Shenzhen. Tonight: Hong Kong! Hedgehog play "This Town Needs", a.k.a. "the new Hidden Agenda". Excited to see it! Spending a few extra days in HK before heading back to Shenzhen for Hiperson, so if you're around, give a shout! I think we'll attempt to shoot a Big Wave music video, too? Their singer is with us playing background stuff for Hedgehog. Alley wandering! All the dim sum! 叉燒! Onward!

I love this city. Endless exploration on a wickedly small scale. Always a bit daunting to me at first, but easy to settle into. It quickly heightens all your senses, leaving you to wander with a hawk eye for ridiculously good food and random shenanigans. It's got an extremely low tolerance for bullshit, and I'm always left a bit breathless after my time. That's a good thing. Another place I am unsure I could ever live, but damn if it's not one of the best short-burst cities to come dive deep, for however long.

Hedgehog were one of the first bands I found in China. They were many other people's introduction as well, forming around the same time as Carsick Cars, D22 club, and a slew of other bands. I never could catch them live. The timing was always off, almost hilariously so. All I could ever muster was to film them in their practice space a few times. They've been together thirteen years now. I'm beyond impressed they've kept it going so long, on top of releasing, in their words, some of their best work to date. No easy feat, considering Atom has a new baby. To follow along these last few shows has really meant a lot to me. Thank You, Hedgehog. Tomorrow, back to Shenzhen to await one last show with Hiperson. 

After Hedgehog, I decided on a whim to fly to Chengdu, in Sichuan province, early. It was a gut feeling that I should go spend a few extra days there. I headed to a party my friend Kristen was putting on, for Hise of Machu Picchu, as he was leaving Chengdu after many years.

 A layered beast channeling Storm & Stress, wavelengths from the world of Chengdu's STOLEN. This remains my favorite city in China. I cannot wait to go on tour with these kids for a bit in November. No sleep whatsoever. At the airport four hours early because I'd just be sitting on the internet, waiting anywhere else, realistically. Whenever I have a flight before 10AM now, I just stay up all night, nail that sweet spot before all the jam-ups, grip my ticket before everyone else, and sit patiently watching the frantic masses from the smoking room. Blinking heavily now, guzzling triple shot espresso watching heavy rain pour down on Sichuan, reflecting on this whole mad deal. Today, a flight to the gnarly, killer Wuhan, and man, it's been too long. Another Dirty Fingers gig. "Face Me On Stage", they say. The makings of an instant classic. 

Lonely Leary. VOX. Wuhan, China. This band has really slapped me in the face the last few days. I caught them for the first time last year in Beijing, and their new LP quickly became one of my favorite recent records from China. I did not recall being able to make their Wuhan show, but there it was, washing over me on two hours of sleep. Rough edges, loud as hell. It's great. I've enjoyed it so much, that I am making another last minute move today. Because I only have one week left in China, I've decided to take the quick and easy fast train to Changsha, Hunan, today, to catch one more gig at the new VOX location that just opened. As they say, you only live once, my friends. Off to the train station.

Wuhan staple AV Okubo VS. Shanghai's Dirty Fingers, last night at Vox. A concept called "Face Me On Stage", where the bands set up opposite each other and "battle" song by song. Probably not a new thing, but definitely unique for China. Historically, most of my favorite rock and roll shows have been played on the floor. You don't see it much here, and it was great. It could have went either way, but in the end, a sweaty, hot mess of a good time, and classic Wuhan. This city rules. Today, I'm heading back to Changsha, Hunan for my final Dirty Fingers gig. It's the final show I'll see in China before heading to Indonesia! Off to the station.

Dirty Fingers, Thank You for what was no doubt one of the top 10 hangovers of my life. Brutal. China, you’re too kind, and that was one hell of a month. Took a 1AM red-eye flight to a layover in Kuala Lumpur. Nodded off at random. More aimless airport wandering, more guzzling strong coffee and waiting for my flight to Jakarta, Indonesia. It’s going to be a long day. I’ll spend a few days here awaiting two Kolibri Records showcase gigs with Grrrl Gang and a few others. Excited for this new leg. Already seeing massive potential, with a lot already planned, as I head towards Jogja to settle in. INDONESIA, let’s go!

Definitely not in Kansas anymore. How beautiful is this? Very out of my element here, but I knew I would be, almost anywhere outside N.E. China. Indonesia is a different animal. So sweet. I love coming back here, but this time to stay, and to move to Yogyakarta, has me in pretty grand spirits. It's setting in now. I spent the night in the basement of Blok M with Yudhistirafrom the excellent band Vague, poking around old vinyl, cassette vendors, ending at the very cool Cafe Mondo. We talked about the difficulty of making tours profitable, or simply just breaking even. Booked a flight to Jogja for Monday to settle in, and there's a string of gigs that week, as soon as I land. Jakarta seems a lot less brash this week. Thanks for the warm welcome, Indonesia...it's going to be a great weekend of noise.

Tarrkam. Guitar Freaks, Jakarta, Indonesia. A few friends were super excited that I'd get to see this band, and I can see why. Very unique "kebinatangan-core" coming out of the capital city of Indonesia. Thanks so much to Kolibri Records for inviting us to their showcase. A great night! After the gig, we headed to meet Dilla at her punk rock collective, the "Ponti Punk" house. Funny that I'd already been here in January of last year to see The Restarts and M.D.C. Dilla now lives there, has left Sugarkane, and has a new band called Lips that I can't wait to see. We ended the night once again at a 24 hour Hong Kong style pork place, at five in the morning. Tonight : A stacked hardcore gig. I feel like I'm 15 years old again. Let's go, Indonesia!

Every time I doubt the malleable nature of the human body, I return to Indonesia, and am reminded by the insane crowds here, flinging around like rubber bands. Blood is not uncommon, but it's almost always with a smile. Yes, there is some macho bullshit here, sometimes. I find it to be rare. Yes, Indonesia has a sexism problem. I'll talk to you about that in a bit. This gig was purely positive vibes. It took about 3 minutes until I was offered the local bath-tub booze, then came Arak, and it didn't stop until the end. A ska band was wedged in the middle, and people went all out, dancing on a dime. "Local hero's" performed, and the whole place sang every word. When Indonesian punk gigs run smoothly, they're truly a magical thing. Today : Din Tai Fung and Turnstile.

Woodhull, refreshing noise-punk at Bengkel Cafe, an outdoor spot that felt like a 70's biker hangout. I arrived to some rowdiness, and local spirits. An inquiry into booze was made, and I was told there's "nowhere around to buy it", but then within minutes, someone copped 3 bottles of vodka. We made screwdrivers. By the third act, the singer jumped into the drum set, totally destroying it. People were pissed. It took them half an hour to put it back together, and the show went on. It's been such a great week. Jogja feels like home, and I'm so happy for that. Today I got a bed, fridge, and couches all set up in my new place. All the pieces are coming together, smoother than I ever thought they would, largely thanks to the amazing community here (and Hendra). Tomorrow, another Grrrl Gang show! Thank You, Yogyakarta.

Grrrl Gang at Sangat Coffee. Ya'll seem to love the live-streams. That makes me happy. Sorry I delete most of them. What an amazing show. The vibe of the whole setup was spectacular. I don't know how they get away with this shit. The bands ranged from Melt Banana style craziness to doom jams. We sat on a box truck that held the PA, drank the gamut of things, and smoked way too many cigarettes. Jogja, if this is even half of what you throw down on a normal week, my decision to come stay here long term was, to put it lightly, the best thing I could have done. I am super impressed, and this is really special. Last night specifically I found myself unable to stop grinning. Tonight, a gig at AOA space to cap off this insane week. Keep it rolling, Jogja.

Deadly Weapon last night at AOA space. I saw a gig in this place years ago. It was Eerie (who sound like Chicago's RUNNING, and are now sadly defunct) and Cloudburst, which this band pleasantly reminded me of. Killer heaviness. It's been a long time since I've seen Made Dharma rock out, but he played double duty this night, and is also in another great band called Warmouth. The performance area is in the attic, up some rickety stairs. I dig it, and it's hot, but not nearly as hot as Rossi in Jakarta. What a week, Jogja. I'm spent! Time for a break. I'm going to try and get my shit together a bit more here, and organize. Then, I'm heading to America via China for a week, to visit family, ship fundraiser perks, grab my degree and all sorts of paperwork, and jump right back into things. When I get back, the real work begins.

My neighbor has beautiful food. She greets me with "Hello, neighbor John!". It's like a food version of "Cheers", as she's so nice. Poking around local joints. Being in the city center has already proven very useful. Short walks to all the things, train station, and easy ride-share pickups. I'm behind my favorite coffee shop that much of the scene still hangs at. Fun spillover so far. It's a big adjustment, but going well. Strolling the neighborhood to smiles, or to be told "good morning" is a really good mental change. Harbin was a bit more rough on me than I realized. This is Soto Koyor, soup made with a turmeric base, beef fat, veggies, rice noodles. Fried chicken on the side. Her place is super cute, and the quality is a notch above street food, which will be good long-term. Total cost: 28,000 IDR (or about $1.95)

When all was said and done with this trek, I headed back to America for a week, hugged the family, bounced in and out of Guangzhou, China. I finally met Tony Cheung, who if you follow this project, you should likely be familiar with by now.

Record Pack 6 forming. Years of hoarding culminated into this, probably the best collection yet. New LP's by Shanghai's Dirty Fingers, Osaka's Blond New Half. Old Sugar Kane CD's from Jakarta. ZOO and Arrington, Nasty Wizard cassettes, Stolen and Hiperson from Chengdu. Cloudburst and Warmouth from Yogyakarta. Old school hand-picked Indra Menus cuts. Ikbal Lubys. So much happening here. Not pictured: Missoula's Magpies, and the loads of 7", LP's and CD's Conan Neutron just dropped off. Thank You, Conan. I love doing these. Tomorrow, I tackle the mystery boxes, shirts, and Tony Cheung art. 

Amor Fati. A "sentimental collaboration show between ambient and soundscape music" by Daniel Bagas. Dance by Ichi Dilaga and Nindya Silvi. Part of Festival Kesenian Yogyakarta #30. They gave everyone wireless headphones and tuned into a private radio frequency. Tough to capture in photo form, but quite unique. This festival is awesome, and I went years ago as well. Sprawling markets and food stalls. All sorts of insane art and wildly imaginative installations scattered throughout. Yogyakarta, despite its size, really is a wonderful for this type of stuff, and it's all very inspiring to see it unfold year after year. They just don't quit.

Buktu. A very "Godspeed You!" influenced band, tight and impressive. Another open air gig, this time at Bentara Budaya. This space seems to be used for all sorts of things. I caught a free jazz performance here weeks ago. It was packed. There were tattoos being done in the back room. An art gallery. With a widely varied lineup, it was one of many benefits happening for Lombok, who have been hit by strong earthquakes relentlessly over the last few weeks, and are in a pretty bleak spot. Nice to see the communities here immediately jumping into action for their own. Even driving around on motorbikes, you see kids standing out in the street with buckets, taking donations for the brothers and sisters nearby. Cheers, Jogja, and best wishes to Lombok moving forward.

How to destroy drums (and make everybody angry) in Yogyakarta, Indonesia.

Nice to see Arrington de Dionyso on Indonesian turf! Real nice day at Ruang Gulma, one of my favorite places to see a gig in Yogyakarta. Safe travels, Arrington! ❤️ Tomorrow: the mighty Senyawa.

A few days ago, it was Indonesia's Independence Day. My friend Ichi invited me to go to a traditional celebration near my home, which I of course, accepted. I was fed immediately upon entering. People were grand and jovial. To me, Indonesia, despite its issues, really has the ability to show you the true spirit of human-kind. It's been a bit of a rough start over here, but I'll find my footing. This is a big change. Today I head to Surabaya to begin a tour with Korea's Drinking Boys & Girls Choir, who I saw 4 years ago in their home city of Daegu. I'm super excited, and it should provide some needed clarity, and energy. My newest film will launch in the next 48 hours, and a new chapter will begin. For that, I am very grateful. Take care out there.

I launched The World Underground Episode 2, and headed to Surabaya to relax for a day and then meet up with the Koreans!

"National Police Shit" - Last night, the first gig for Drinking Boys & Girls Choir went off without a hitch in Surabaya. That is, until a bunch of undercover cops showed up to the space. It seemed like it might be just a normal "quiet down", and then they brought us all inside. I wasn't worried, until my friend Prabu was worried. They locked the doors, made us all sit down. They told us to not move, not smoke. Earlier, I had seen a partied out kid face down, get taken out and carried into a van. Apparently, that's why they came. So began an hour of interrogation on who brought whatever he did. Synthetic weed, likely, which Indonesia seems to dig. 

It's funny though, nobody said a single word. It was kind of amazing, the silence. They searched us at random, checking cigarettes, asking a lot of questions that I'll never understand. Lots of stern nationalistic talk about how you don't need alcohol to play music. Asking if this is what Indonesia had become. The main guy threatened us with all sorts of shit. Bringing us to the police station. Drug testing us like China so loves to do. None of that happened thankfully. Honestly, the whole deal could have been much, much worse, considering Indonesian police can basically do whatever the hell they want. Hell of a way to start a tour, though. Onward, to Houtenhand, in Malang! Welcome to Indonesia, my friends.

EP2 screened in Borneo thanks to my friend Theo Nugraha.

I was told a few dozen times in the last week how amazing Malang, and specifically, the Houtenhand bar is. I tried to keep expectations at bay. It was a quick jaunt via Surabaya by bus. I passed out at my hotel for a few hours, and woke up ready to rage. Houtenhand is a three level space sprayed with art, very cheap beer, and a killer rooftop. Bondu Seo got his lip split open and bled all over his shirt, lots of crowd-surfing was done considering the fairly small crowd, and we all left quite exhilarated. Can't wait to go back here. As we speak, we're on the train to Yogyakarta.

"National Police Shit #2" - It's an 8 hour train from Yogyakarta, and we arrive in Bandung. An outdoor cafe space. The gig starts, and I run to get batteries. I come back to Meena saying their gig is cancelled. The cops came, and said we could either have the show without the touring band, since they have no permit, or not have the show at all. SNK gets on stage, play an improv "fuck the police" song, Prabu smashes his guitar out of frustration after three songs. Kids pull through hard, book two of the bands into a surprisingly large studio space. We make a quick run for food, and are told a few dozen kids are already waiting for them there. Tonight, we're triumphant. Cheers to Bandung for making shit happen. This was really special. 

I had to re-take this photo, 4 years later. Couldn't resist. What I thought would be an easy three hour slide into the outskirts of Jakarta, took well over six. So it goes near the capital city. I met up with the bands at a sate restaurant, and we headed to D'jogja Studio, in Tangerang. I got a small bout of food poisoning, and ended up puking my brains out in between bands. Powered through with lots of water, and filmed the show anyway. Feeling much better today. What a killer tour. Exhausting. Heartwarming. Real great to go back to some of these cities. Thanks so much to 드링킹소년소녀합창단 - DrinkingBoys&GirlsChoir, Saturday Night Karaoke, new and old friends we met along the way. You're the best. Does this photo look familiar? Couldn't help but re-do it 4 years later. Time for some rest in Jakarta and Guangzhou.

Wew, lad.  Okay.  There you have it.  There's a lot coming up.  The future is uncertain.  Take care out there.  Keep an eye out. 

Listen to and support these bands : 

Dirty Fingers

Hedgehog

Lonely Leary

Tarrkam

Grrrl Gang

Drinking Boys and Girls Choir

Saturday Night Karaoke

Blond New Half

The World Underground : Episode 2 is live! Watch it now.

Episode 2: GUIGUISUISUI & NOISE ARCADE

Budget : $3,000 after fundraiser fees

Hello again. Welcome to the newest edition of The World Underground. This project is funded entirely by donations. I release everything for donation so that it's accessible to everyone, as well as in the hope of continuing, or some day becoming self-sustainable.  Please consider making a donation of $5 via the donate page.

Episode 2 follows Beijing based musicians GUIGUISUISUI (Dann Gaymer) and Noise Arcade (Michael Cupoli) on tour in Japan, Korea, and Northeast China.  This is a film about the people you meet along the way. The endless sounds that now, can never be unheard. Noise meeting deep quiet, and confusion meeting exhaustion. Finishing this film almost broke me. It took four years. It's shifted and morphed so many times. Those who don't follow me closely may not know that I moved to China while making it, spent three years there, and have since moved to Indonesia to do this project full-time.

For a while I thought I'd never be able to make something that I didn't loathe. I did, and this is it. An attempt to capture a three week trek through some of the most beautifully bewildering, drunken, noise-drenched landscapes on earth. To me, it's always surprising just how much can be shared without language. Alongside the Korea based media outlet Aweh, our goal was to align ourselves with as many local artists as possible, and see what stories came naturally.  From Busan, to Osaka, all these sounds and stories that stuck to us over the weeks, it's bottled into 90 minutes. To me, this film is unfinished, and it will remain that way. When is something ever truly "done" anyway?

This isn't an attempt to provide any sort of objective documentation of the people, places, or artists we discovered on our journey.  It's not even meant to be a reflection of reality.  It's simply a story we've chosen to share.  Take from it what you will.  That said, I hope you enjoy it.

Thanks so much for continuing to support this project.  It means the world to me.

It features performances, footage, and interviews by:

GUIGUISUISUI (China)

Noise Arcade (China)

Luvplastik (China)

JFI (China)

Nice Legs (Korea)

Yamagata Tweakster (Korea)

East Guinness Crew (Korea)

Mineri (Korea)

Colours (Korea)

Drinking Boys & Girls Choir (Korea)

Say Sue Me (Korea)

Genius (Korea)

Bellbottom from 80's (Japan)

Macmanaman (Japan)

Ninja Man (Japan)

Tero Tero (Japan)

Blond New Half (Japan)

Psychedelic Desert (Japan)

Komai Satoshi & Cyappie (Japan)

Harikozue (Japan)

Punk Disco (Japan)

Elephant Noiz Kashimashi (Japan)

Darklaw & Facial Mess (Japan)

Your Pest Band (Japan)

Thanks so much for continuing to support this project.  It means the world to me.

Film, photography, editing, and sound recording by John Yingling

Japanese translation : Jon Van Dyke

Korean translation : Seoyool Park

Genius audio mix : Arne Stich

Say Sue Me audio mix : Philip Brett

Trailer credits: 

Sound Design by Dereck Blackburn of Quiethouse Recording

Songs by: 

Your Pest Band

Noise Arcade

Say Sue Me

GUIGUISUISUI

Blond New Half

Additional footage by Julia Pentelute

Take care out there.

- Yingling

Incoming : Korean skate-punk, Spanish hooks, Dirty Fingers

Hello. This is an updated plan for The World Underground for the next few months. It's a rough, by the pant-seat type of deal, and could change due to death, dismemberment, exhaustion, or whatever lies in between. In a perfect world, the mighty Hot Snakes would agree to let me go with them on their Europe tour. We're bothering them about that now. If not, I'll trek alone and get mega wine-drunk and do what I can. That's a whole 'nother ball of wax in the future, though. I'll be editing in between all of this, on the road, in shitty hotel rooms, and as always, telling stories along the way. See you out there with Generacion Suicida, 드링킹소년소녀합창단 - DrinkingBoys&GirlsChoir, OH Dirty Fingers 脏手指! 

Episode 2 progress, a move to Indonesia, and the future!

Howdy folks.  A few things for you:

My time in Northeast China has come to an end, and next Friday, I begin exiting China. I'm moving to Indonesia for a deep dive, and taking this project full time for as long as possible. This has me jumping in and out of tours with Hiperson, Dirty Fingers, and Hedgehog in June.  Hiperson and Hedgehog both have new records out.  Click their names to listen.  I'll also return to Osaka, Japan, this time with my filming camera, so I'm hoping it's even half as eventful as that last trek with Blond New Half.  I'm so excited to begin a new chapter that will bring this project to the next level.  For those who threw down on the fundraiser to help make it happen, Thank You again.  I will briefly return to the midwest in July to ship your donation perks!  Some major boxes in my personal life have finally been checked.  All of them, really, except that of the release of Episode 2 of this project.

Episode 2 has been all but finished for some time. My original plans to have it released have come and gone many times. This is frustrating, but due to the DIY nature of people doing things for low-to-no cost, I must sit tight and let the rest of the pieces be finished when they're able. I hope for a June release, but time will tell. For my move to Indonesia and the subsequent new shorter film series, I'm putting pieces into place to expedite these issues. I've learned a lot over the last few years, and I'm very excited to start having consistent high quality content for you that really makes The World Underground shine each month. That's what the move to China was working toward, and it begins now. In nine days.  Holy shit!

The future is bright. I begin a move to Yogyakarta, Indonesia in 9 days.  This will serve multiple purposes.  The first, will be to begin editing Episode 3, which is a self-funded endeavor, trekking once again with Beijing's P.K.14.  This film will be very different from my previous pieces.

Once this has finished, I hope to begin a longer piece on Indonesia, while I am living in country.  I think this brings great opportunities to not only show-case past filming efforts done there in 2015, but bring some new light to what is currently happening.  In the middle of all of this, I will begin a short film series, that I hope to release every single month.  Bringing this project into more hyper time-sensitive output is something I have wanted to do for year, and it's about to become a reality.  After this has all began taking shape, I will begin work on a film about Missoula, Montana.  That will be a very interesting time capsule.

Summer and beyond is going to be very interesting.  Aside from what I have lined up so far, I will be letting things fall into place naturally along the way.  Freeing myself up to "just go" has long been something I've pined for.  Fall will bring a 7 city S.E.A. tour by the South Los Angeles Spanish punk band Generacion Suicida.  This is only the beginning, as everything in between will be an "as we go" endeavor.  There should be shows by Mexico grind-core bands in Rumah Api, Kuala Lumpur, treks in Sumatra with Palmer Keen from Aural Archipelago, and everything else in between.  That's not to mention the very vibrant scene of Yogyakarta, the city that will be my editing and resting base.

For all of this to become reality so soon, I am very, very excited.  I'm doing my best not to freak out entirely right now.  Thanks for your patience, and your support. It's about to get real. 

As always, I'll update you every chance I get along the way.  The tours should bring daily updates.  Social media is doing its best to keep eyes on the fear, terror, and shittier aspects of life, but we can only do what we can to push forward in healthy ways.  Let's keep rolling.  We can make it.  Stay safe out there.

Best,

- Yingling

"南方" (South) : A film about P.K.14 (or, The World Underground EP3)

Hey. The third installment of The World Underground will be called "南方" (South), and it will be about P.K.14. It will not have any interviews. That's all I can tell you at this time. I decided to shift last year's trek to EP3 for many reasons, all of which will become clear in the next few months. Episode 2 will be released by summer, and then I will begin editing this. I hope to have it released around the end of this year, around the same time P.K.14 put out their new record, but that's a tall order. In a perfect world, I will follow them on tour one more time, but it's uncertain if or when they will tour around the album release. More information to come. The website will be updated to reflect this change shortly. Cheers.

P.K.14's Vital & Dynamic March Forward: A Chinese Tour Diary

Ask any Chinese born P.K.14 fan what the band means to them, and watch their pupils dilate. After nearly twenty years, they still have more to say. What is our identity? Who are we? How do we define ourself in a fast-changing world? This is what Yang Haisong says he'll be singing about on their new record. To say P.K.14's outlook on these topics are necessary or important, in the current state of Chinese society, would be a vast understatement. There are deep layers here, and the band always finds a way to say exactly what they want, without alarming censors of the P.R.C. Haisong says his inspirations are but a sparkle. Alongside his bandmates, they don't know where they come from, or when they'll disappear.

Four years ago, these men changed my life, and took me on tour with them. Flashes of Chengdu and Wuhan still flow freely in my mind. I doubt they'll ever disappear. It was my first visit to China. Since then, I've written Yang Haisong every few months, to see when, or if, they'd trek out again. Part of me worried it'd never happen. After years of bothering, I'm told a tour has been planned. A trek south, as far down as Macau. That I can come, if I want to. They'll try to get a bigger van. I spend the next few months worrying it would be cancelled. It wasn't. These new songs, I don't ask for the lyrics. I just want raw emotion to carry me. To be a fly on the wall. Sound and color, bleeding out. The camera as my eyes, staying silent and letting it all roll over me. Now, how do I sleep?

Early morning in Heilongjiang. 6 A.M. My flight was over three hours out, but I like to be early. It's about an hour at most to the Harbin airport. I fumble around, triple check everything, worry about my monopod being accepted as check-in, and take off. We're sitting on the bridge outside of Harbin proper. Crawling. An hour passes. I start to get worried. My companion, she's reassuring. “It'll be fine”, she says. Another hour passes. We're still 45 kilometers away. My brain swaps to panic. I have thirty minutes to grab my tickets and get through security. I'm toast, I thought. I jump on Wechat and start looking at alternatives. I could fly to Beijing and take a train. I could do this. Do that. Minimal cost, I reason with myself, to just get there on time. Nine shows. Nine cities. Nine days, and it all goes to hell if I can't make it to Ningbo on time, as they're letting me in their van again.  Nothing to do now but gulp it down, and see what happens.

We hit the airport gates. I jump out, grab my bags. Run up to the counter. The lady smiles. “You're late.” I laugh. I tell her, I know, I'm sorry. She points at the times, and says “Go.” We run to the side of the security check, my friend spouts quickly in Mandarin, points at the ticket time, and the first class check-in rope gets pulled aside. To be clear, I hate this. I get through the checks in 5 minutes, and to my gate before boarding even begins. I light a cigarette in the smoking room. Laugh. Hell of a start to it all.

I land in Ningbo to waves of relief. This whole trek, aside from Guangzhou and Shenzhen, is all new territory for me. It's raining. Grey. The taxi driver doesn't know the place, and I can tell. He drops me, and I wander a bit trying to find Beacon Livehouse. I do a few circles. Ask a few locals, but don't understand their responses, aside from a few grunts and points to nudge me in the right direction. Goddamn, it's good to be out of Harbin. I have a strange suspicion Dongbei people think I'm Russian. Gone are the warm smiles, the “Where you from?”, the random and ever present “Ganbei” (dry cup). Cold stares and quick answers for me, but that's a different story altogether.

I get pushed in the right direction a few times, and finally happen across a small room bar behind a graffiti splashed wall. I message the band of my arrival. The staff are beams of light. They all seem excited as hell. A fellow photographer grabs me for some selfies. She's got a tripod set up. They order me lunch. It's cheap and delicious. I devour it like it's my first meal all week. I try not to think about food on the tour. Resist the urge to start looking up these cities. I try not to think about P.K.14's impending arrival. I'm, honestly, still a bit nervous. My goal this time, is to go in blind. No plan. No interviews. Try to film mood and energy. How this makes me feel. It's a low-impact trip for me. I'm already in China. I know these people, and have spent hours in cars with them. Yet, jitters remain. It all melts away when they start pouring into the venue. I give them all long, hard hugs. Nervousness melts away to glee, and I start blathering about how grateful I am to be here.

I try to reign it in. There are some long days ahead. There's time for it all. I joke about how they'll surely be happy to no longer get monthly e-mails from me, inquiring about when they will tour. It's been years. That's a lot of questions.

Eventually, someone surely will write a book on P.K.14's influence in modern Chinese musical culture. They firmed their place in this canon long ago. Very few bands, not just in Asia, but the world, can claim this. Yang Haisong long ago gained legendary status not only as a front-man, a poet, and a producer...but for helping raise up the younger generation of China's youth culture. Time and again, I hear it from younger kids in China. “No, look. You don't understand, man. P.K.14 are the best band in the world.” I like to think that after all this time, after all these stories, that I do understand. They've certainly change my life as well, and even thinking in a Western vacuum, I can only begin to understand the impact they have on young, impressionable Chinese kids. Kids who have been force fed what to think, and when to think it, their entire lives. These songs. These lyrics. These performances. They're staggering breaths of fresh air that are sorely needed, and I don't even know what's being said.

I did not forget how incredible P.K.14 are as a live act, but it's still a bucket of water to the face. Kids lock arms and circle jump the room. I've got a shit-eating grin on my face. Their new sounds are as clean and inventive as anything they've ever done. Each instrument giving space to the other, but crashing together in perfect harmony at just the right moment. Photographers buzz around and try to capture the frantic energy of it all. A friend from Montana, Josh Wagner, he's currently bouncing around Asia, ending in Chengdu. He decided to come and meet me. I'm so happy he got to see this. It's an incredible first night, that ends in a small noodle shop nearby. Their tour manager booked me a hotel, but they don't allow foreigners, so they had to sneak me in the back door. We slip down the hallway and enter without issue. It's still funny to me that this is a thing here.

In the hotel, pure silence, for the first time in as long as I can remember. I can't believe I get to do this again. I dump footage, write a quick daily post on social media, and jump into a comfortable bed. Tomorrow, a gig in a temple, in the mountains of Yiwu.

“Welcome to the center of the universe.” slurred an excited man into my lens, about Gebi Bar, in Yiwu. We pulled up to the place greeted by more rain. A pack of a half dozen mangy dogs growled at our exit to the van. My mind was still swirling with Zhejiang province's mountains whizzing by in the van. More new territory. It really was a goddamn temple, in the mountains! Up a small side road, to a reconstructed red building. Ten years ago, they rented, and began to renovate it, in an aim to make something unique. The performance room's ceiling, the banisters, much of it is still original from its partial demolition during the Cultural Revolution. They've made some changes, but that's to be expected, as it was dilapidated. Problems have arisen, but like many others in China, they “close when the problems come, open when they've passed.” The place was amazing. Great food. Friendly staff. Local kids were excited, and gushed about Gebi. One kid was particularly upset that across China, in his opinion, you're forced out of these venues at 10 or 11 at night, and “can't even drink a beer or make friends.” This space, he said, was a place you didn't have to leave when the gig was over. Where you could meet people who share the same mindset, and create with them. P.K.14 tear the place apart, and I laugh while filming, trying to keep my camera steady. The endless rain cleared as they finished performing, and as far as this man's claim goes, he has no idea how right on he was.

Wenzhou. Tonight's venue is called MangTang. We snake through stunning mountain passes. Incredible landscapes on these drives, and no doubt totally different than if I were taking the train. The venue is an old warehouse district, old powder factories, now converted into cafes and shitty restaurants. China likes to do this, and it reminds me of B10 in Shenzhen. Everybody I talk to seems to be all for this, as it would remain unused and rotting if they did nothing. Mediocre or not, the potential is there, and something is better than nothing, especially in smaller Chinese cities. There's a lot of money in Wenzhou, and Johnny tells me of people buying up large swathes of property in other cities, sight unseen. It's insanely pretty here. Chill vibes, and a low energy crowd. I sat in the middle with my monopod, giving my body a break. Cute girls amassed after the show, and my attempts to find something interesting in the after-hours department were thwarted by rain. It's a seven hour drive to Quanzhou, but only three by train, so I wished the band a safe drive, and in the morning, I head off to the station.

Quanzhou. It's been a while since I've taken a fast train in China. They remain extremely comfortable. I set up shop at a large table in the food car, and nearly two dozen people begin to fill around me as I work. This is always fun, if you can remain relaxed and roll with the punches. More striking mountainous landscapes from Fujian province, as dozens of temples, and churches fly by. I wonder why there are so many Christian style crosses mixed with the temples, but nobody seems to have a clear answer for me. More pouring rain. Our venue is called the Animal World Music Commune. Strangely fitting as the area is filled with sculptures like Batman riding a bike with Ronald McDonald. I find it all super weird, shake my head, and seek food. The venue is a small bar with an enthusiastic owner, and the more I walk around, the more wildly confusing my surroundings become. The owner feeds us great stuff all night, including the largest bowls of noodles I've ever seen. Excellent hosts. The openers, Rejian Bei Shashou, are noise drenched shoe-gaze. Refreshing. They came from Xiamen, which is our next city. I tell them, bring a USB stick to the gig tomorrow, if you can, and I'll get you the video and a recording. A slick purple love hotel style room is booked for me, a short walk down the strange side-street. I sleep like a baby.

It's an hour drive to Xiamen. I'm twitching with excitement by a mere glimpse of the place when we roll in. Old meets new crush together on the riverside, and tourists have surely began to gulp down this city in masses. Years ago, on the first day I met P.K.14, Johnny told me of this venue. Real Live. Their friend had just opened it, and the band played the second ever show to be held there. Now, they were back, and I was in tow. Another warehouse area, converted out. The building that housed Real Live used to be an ice factory, and Johnny pointed upward at the old cooling coils, still in tact. Xiamen was amazing, and I wish I had more time. The most intense crowd of the tour so far. They even freaked out at the new songs, which made me so happy. I sat in the middle again, resting my shoulders and arms, but this was a different endeavor. Now I had to dodge the circle-pits, side stepping and picking up the camera when kids flung themselves toward me. Incredible to stand in one place and watch it all unfold. I had to run behind Xu Bo's amp for the encore. Xiamen, I'll definitely be back. The day ended and I found myself getting excited for my return to Guangzhou. It's been four years. The drive takes 10 hours, so I again decide to take a train. It's only a three hour train ride to Shenzhen, and a quick 45 minute jump to Guangzhou from there. That's what it was supposed to be, anyway. How wrong I ended up being.

Sometimes, despite all your best efforts, things don't work out exactly as you'd planned. I exit Xiamen in pouring rain, and it's very far to the train station. I make it with much time to spare, and am excited to be on pace to arrive in Guangzhou early. Then, the train doesn't leave the station. What should be a 3 hour ride to Shenzhen, becomes more than two hours of waiting at the station, only to swap to a slower train. We leave at 4:00 PM instead of 1. My brain does the math, and I'll still be early. It's still rainy, but we're going 200 kilometers per hour, so I largely don't even think about it. Around 6 P.M., I notice on the map we're still not even close. I ask the attendant, what's our arrival time? 9 P.M. I shake my head. No. This can't be... it's a 3 hour ride! She makes a motion of rain and clouds above her head. Fuck. I'm screwed. Knowing China, and transfer times, I'll never, ever make it. I accept the fact that I'm going to miss it all, including my most anticipated opener, a female-fronted grind-core band called Die, Chiwawa, Die! Despite this, I was still determined as hell. I jump off the train and hustle to the ticket office. My muscles scream, but I push on. I make a motion with my phone about a flight to some other city, and cut in front of the insanely long line. I never fucking do this. However, that line would have taken at least an hour, and I've only got an hour to spare, if I even want to try and film a single song from P.K.14. Nobody puts up much of a fuss, my feeling bad lasts about 4 seconds, and I run to the train. I'm in. 45 minutes to Guangzhou, and it's nearing half past nine. I hop in a taxi, tell the guy I'm late, and he scream off into the humid Guangdong night. I throw fifty kuai at the driver for getting me there so fast, and am in the venue in seconds, jumping to set up my camera.

P.K.14 are about half-way through their set. I spot old friends Song and Howie, and give them a knowing smirk. My camera turns on, and I'm plagued with shutter issues. Hard, footage-ruining, rolling shutter bars stream down the screen, and awful flashing lights, that you see in so many careless videos these days. I spend 80% of the remainder of their set trying to figure out how to fix it. It's either that, or don't film at all, and that's not what I'm here for. Finally, it dials in, and all is clear. I jump on stage and capture the final three songs, again behind Xu Bo's amp. Before the encore, I slide out and snap a photo of the audience. When it was all over, I tried to let the singer of “Chiwawa” know how sad I was to have missed her play. How hard I tried to make it in time. She understands, and pours me a double whiskey. At the end of it all, an impossible day turned into catching a handful of songs, meeting old friends, and we end the day with an insanely good Cantonese meal. It could have gone down much worse. Smiling, I think of my first time meeting Howie and Song, and again it feels like mere months ago, rather than years. I dump footage while trying to keep myself awake, keep myself aware enough to not make any major mistakes, and drift off to intense dreams of rain, mountains, and Guangdong humidity.

It's smooth sailing to Shenzhen, a 45 minute drive from Guangzhou. Man, I've really missed Canton. Guangdong province is a haven for BBQ pork and all sorts of delicious food. I've been to the venue, B10, twice before. Once with P.K.14, and again on the way back down with Haisong's other band, After Argument. Another converted factory space. The humidity hits me as we stand in the hotel's lobby. B10 moved to a different building in the same area, and it looks exactly the same. Some of the staff remember me, and comment on my camera upgrade. Hell of a memory. They were always so wonderful to me, and this time is no different. My on camera mic is beat to shit, all proper support bands are nearly torn off, causing the mic to slump onto the side of its holster. That's not good. They grab me rubber bands to ghetto-rig the thing from falling apart. Just a few more shows to go. You can make it, little buddy. You may recognize the woman in the photo below. Sijiang from Chengdu's Hiperson. She and Li Yinan came to see the show, and my heart just about exploded.

I tried to tell them just how big of an impact they had on me, seeing Sichuan through their eyes for the first time. In Chengdu, she told me you "have to find the difference between grays", and made me look at life in a different way. I tried to not lay it on too thick, but I meant every word, even the ones I couldn't quite articulate then. Last October, I missed them because they were in Europe. I am so endlessly proud of them. Sijiang, she gets it. She told me they would come play in Harbin, and to not worry much about payment, because we are trying to build a scene. They want to help us do that. I wish everyone saw things the way Sijiang does. See you in Sichuan, in a few months, dear friends.

I walk around, get coffee. An old friend, Jia Jia, messages me, asking where I am. We met in the forest in Indonesia, years ago, behind Wangi Artroom. She messaged the project's Facebook account, asking what to do in Indonesia, and I told her about this experimental series called Kombo. Jia Jia loved the idea, flew into Jogja, and headed straight there, with no break whatsoever. Now that's dedication. A truly glorious night, filled with a mixture of friends made throughout the years. I start trying to wrap my brain around finishing this all. It just won't stick, so I focus on just getting through the final show in Mainland China before we head to Macau.

Dongguan. They've never played So What Livehouse, so we didn't really know what to expect. It's a nice, small bar, with a short stage. The place reminded me of The Empty Bottle, in Chicago. There's a 5 year old in attendance. Upstairs, a fancy wine and tea room with a large, out of tune Chinese string instrument. Johnny immediately starts dicking around with it all. Haisong tries to relax. His back has been hurting for a while. He's laying on the floor again.

I get heavy on Johnny and Haisong and told them how much the last four years has meant to me. How much they mean to so many people. What the kids have told me over the years. The wide-eyed discussions. I'd like to think they understand. I try not to lay it on too thick, but I want them to know, in person, how much it's all meant to me. They tear apart a mixed up setlist to a small but eager crowd. I stay behind in Dongguan to rest, and they make the trek back to Zhuhai for an easier exit to Macau.

I'm more than satisfied, but I don't want to leave. My favorite moments are the ones that unexpectedly smack you in the face, in the best way. The ones that make you stop dead in your tracks, take a breath, and laugh. Their tour manager got me a final hotel, so I hit the streets for b-roll. I wave in a taxi at 2AM, ask where to get 叉燒, or BBQ pork. I ask him to take me where the drunk people eat. He brought me here, a goose and pork spot. I rock up and order while the half dozen women grin. They're genuinely, super nice people. I always eye how they treat the local guests. I kill one, then two bowls of freshly pulled noodles. Their grinning intensifies. Finally, I order one more plate of just pork. They howl. It was a perfect moment, and one that'll stick for a long time.

Macau was intense. It's not a difficult city by any means, it's just a bit rich for my blood. I'm sure if I had more time I could find some hits on the cheap, but I only had one day. The venue's up a rickety elevator, and the owner feeds me pork from a giant bowl. Goddamn I've missed the south, but whiskey and cokes are the equivalent of 100 RMB, or $15 U.S.D. I feel money seeping out of me, even just having been here a few hours. Xiao Long Bao joints circled my hotel, so I had to partake. The different money, the fact that you can use RMB and HKD everywhere. The endless casinos, mix of Portuguese and Chinese. I can't say it's a priority to be back any time soon, but I would like to return for a deeper trek.

So it ends. If music leaves a mark on you, P.K.14 have carved deeply into me, with transformative experiences that gave me a new outlook on life. A side of China I surely never would've seen otherwise. It's a lot to unpack. Doing this again was a dream come true. More places, foods, people, and stories that never would have been on my radar, without them. I am forever grateful. 

It's going to be a bit before I wrap my brain around what this film will be, but it's going to be different, dark, and beautiful.  Until then, thanks again, for everything.

Listen to and buy P.K.14's music here.

-Yingling

Harsh noise hits Heilongjiang.

P.R.C.M (中國絞肉機) last week, in Harbin.

This gig almost did not happen. It was originally scheduled at "The Door", but the Chengguan had other plans, locking down the main bar street in the city for an undetermined amount of time.  For an undetermined reason.  Leaving everyone to keep their front lights off, and lay low.  Such is life in China.  

Moving shows can be a disaster, and that being said, I am truly amazed at how this went down, especially for a city such as this.  I don't mean to rag on Harbin.  Really.  It's just that, this type of thing, it just doesn't happen here.  Even neighboring Dalian, home to bands like Wang Wen, is simply spotted with shows throughout the year, but Harbin, Shenyang, and Changchun, where many of these acts come from, it's still very much a crawling toddler in the grand scheme.   

Six acts performed in just over three hours. Artists from Yunnan province, Changchun, Switzerland. Live visuals. A kraut rock band. A lot of people showed up. They actually put money in the donation hat. I have seen hundreds of rooms totally clear out for more tame things than much of last night, but everybody stuck right where they were, all the way until the end. I can't begin to describe how happy it all made me.

Thanks so much to everyone who made it what it was. It really means a lot to us. Dongbei, GOOD JOB! Stoked on summer. Bands : Come hang! Cheers.

Escape from Dongbei : A trek for noise in S.E. Asia.

I hate to say it, but life is fairly easy for me up in N.E. China.  It feels stupid and shitty to be so comfortable during such tumultuous times.  However, that's just the way it has rolled out for me.  Working my ass off on a lot of fronts feels really good.  I have begun to understand that some things are just going to take a little more time than I'd like, and that's okay.  That's life.  I get paid decently well, am throwing large chunks of money at debt for the first time in a decade.  I have free time to finish a Bachelor's Degree and continue to work on this project.  I like my job.  Sure, Dongbei can be a bit grating sometimes, but for now, it's home.  Having the privilege to travel is another large benefit to taking up this lifestyle.  Though we have lined up some gigs in Heilongjiang, there is largely, nothing happening up here on a regular basis.  We have an upcoming rager with Changchun noise heads.  See the previous blog post for more information, if you're so inclined.  That said, I really miss a consistent noisier end of things.  I decided to take an extended Spring Festival holiday and head back to some of my favorite places.  Check out a few new spots.  Do everything I could to drench myself in as much art and music as possible.  This is how it went.

Wong Ah Wah on Jalan Alor

First up : food.  Night one in Kuala Lumpur. No hassles getting everything started at the airport. Data SIM, money, train into town. Easy, and all done with a smile. It's hot out. I laugh, as I haven't been this warm in a long time. Midnight by now. If you look at a few dozen lists of where to eat in KL, there are a few places that stick on every one, and that's the chicken wings at Wong Ah Wah, on Jalan Alor, a popular street food spot. I love a good Char Kway Teow, but these people, they're not wrong. After fifteen hours of travel, I limp to the end of the food street. Surprisingly, it's half empty. These wings are spectacular. Impossibly crispy. Try to go during non-peak hours. So good to be south again. My body is already happy. Today, all the food.

Nasi Lemak at Village Park in KL.

Now we're talking. Nasi Lemak with Rendang and chicken. Fragrant rice. Peanuts. Sambal. Truly an outstanding thing. On a tip from the ever-helpful Brad M. Seippel, I headed to what he suggested was the best in town, Village Park. Thank You, Brad. Couldn't ask for a better lunch. Afterwards, I met up with an old friend, Matthew Cronin, and his partner Lana Mckinnon. On the outskirts of Jalan Alor, we took a deep breath of Isaan thai food. Bar hopped with Kilkenny on tap. Ended with a second round of Wong Ah Wah. Tumultuous times call for a dive for warmth, and we've cosmically found it here, this week, in Southeast Asia. I hope you can, as well. Take care out there. Be well, and keep pushing on, friends.

Rumah Api

I didn't expect to see anything like this in Malaysia. Happy to be wrong. The wonderful Shaze, who is away from the city, contacted me about a gig at Rumah Api, which I had still never been to. Think of all your favorite dirty DIY spaces around the world, and that's it. Perfect. It's been well over a year since last seeing the members of Shh...Diam!, who are very vocal on LGBTQ, women's rights, and issues we should all care about. Much of the venue is covered in such. This night, as I take a quick glance and see America massing by the millions, a small handful launched each other into the air again and again. It felt like home to us. Thank You, Malaysia. This was the warmest, kindest 72 hours I can remember. Today : Jakarta, MDC, screaming with Dave Dictor . Perfect.

MDC at Ponti Fest Jakarta

M.D.C. Indonesia, day one. Flew in, ate Satay Padang. My friend Jay took me around to ten shops on his bike until we finally found a SIM. Met up with the wonderful Dea Karina, who brought me to "Ponti Fest". Yesterday, the collective's house was raided by police. Tonight, the M.D.C. crew played alongside two dozen other bands including The Elected Officials and The Restarts. Bonkers gig. So many kids. So many bands. Classic Indonesia. Insane heat in the main room. Anca Manimau was there! Spectacular night. Thanks for the killer first day, Indonesia. Tomorrow, a breather.  

You can listen to a live recording here, or by clicking below while you read.

Satay and soup

So nice to be street level in Indonesia again. First real taste of Jakarta traffic today. Truly bonkers. A short trip turned two hours, but that's the reality here. There are a few apps here like Uber, but for motor-bikes. Exact same concept.  It's a ubiquitous set of food, available everywhere here. Chicken Satay with an intensely good peanut sauce. Two types of soup. Chicken + Goat. Tea. Rice. It's great, and I've missed these flavors.

Morning, Bandung. A three hour train ride in yesterday, and I immediately met up with Palmer Keen. He runs the spectacular "Aural Archipelago", documenting lesser known traditional music around Indonesia. Also in tow was James Russell Fritsch, who just began a new label, "100,000". Our meeting point, the Sudirman street market, a Chinese / Indonesian area. I immediately ate two plates of Guangdong style pork. We then headed to a seedy Jaipong club, which I can't even begin to explain to you right now. This is Palmer's porch. The green house, James'. I didn't know this upon separately planning to meet both of them. They've both left the country this morning, and allowed me to stay. Thank You for the hospitality. A few days of wandering, until Jogja band Seahoarse, who I met on my first run here, play a gig! Excited!

Jaipong in Bandung.  Highly recommended.

Last night, Palmer + Sinta said we'd go to a "seedy Jaipong club". I'm still learning what I witnessed. In 1961, Sukarno prohibited Rock and Roll, Western genres, so Jaipong was born. It's a Sundanese dance performance with traditional instruments, but players + dancers feed off each other. This place... indeed very seedy. There'd be a pop session, then Jaipong would start. Men would go up and dance with the women. However, respect was paramount. It's about sensuality. How close can you get without touching? You'd do a jig up to tip the band. People cheered. Wild atmosphere. A wasted police officer kept sitting by us, telling us he was a cop, grabbing us, and pulling Palmer up to dance. Definitely the wildest place I've been that few foreigners ever trek to. If you're ever in Bandung, go dive in.

Seahoarse (Jogja)

Seahoarse. Well over one year ago, I caught their second show as a band, in Yogyakarta. Of course, now, they're tighter, faster, louder. An amazing warehouse spot, "Spasial" that supposedly used to be an old military area. Shops, cafes littered inside. Really something, and I'd assume, a perfect newer addition to Bandung's scene. Five other bands. A showcase for Jakarta based Kolibri Records. Really great to see this type of thing in Indonesia, such a massive space. Feeling pretty raw, with stomach sickness turning into body flu by night. My most anticipated gig is tomorrow, back in Jakarta, so I'm going to responsibly power through, and then rest when I get to the chill vibes of Yogyakarta. I'll be safe. Time to rest. Cheers.

Panca Dwinandhika Zen . He's working in Bandung, where we met, documenting tattoo culture. Not only has he worked in a prison, befriending the in-mates, he aims to capture the disappearing traditional world of the "hand-tap" style art-form. There are under a dozen remaining in the world that know this style, and he believes in keeping it alive. He's done another film about Bali. We talked about his current research, trying to find the Jugun Ianfu, or what were "comfort women" for Japanese colonialists. Near the borders of Indonesia and Timor Leste, at 14 to 16 years old, they'd get large tattoos to be spared being chosen for this. They're now around 90, and he's trying to wade the difficult waters of finding them. Very nice to meet you, Panca. Until next time.  You can read a bit about Panca's journey, in a VICE Indonesia article by Dea Karina.  Click here to do that.

BBDKK in Jogja

To Jogja!  One of my favorite cities on the planet.  This is BBDKK. Opening reception for "A Quiet Universe", which was nice. One of their members played a metal rod with bike parts as strings. I don't know the specifics, but I asked him about it and he said it was inspired by the group Senyawa. Good job Rully and Wukir! Chill night. It was Indra's birthday, and I asked him what his favorite spot to eat in Jogja was. He told me, an italian pizza joint. It was still open. Off we went, just in time for last order. We then decided it was a good idea to go get tacos down the street. These were good decisions, really, considering the lack of this type of stuff in N.E. China. We bode farewell to Indra. A few beers with the J's, and left the night as true gluttons. Another Happy Birthday to you, Uncle Indra. Thanks for the nice night. Today : Prambanan round 2.

Prambanan

Prambanan Temple. My second visit here. Really, just as good as the first. This, and the other main one around Jogja, you cannot go wrong with. Everyone seems to have to so much joy to be there. You'll get a boatload of selfie requests, first in a group, then they want to go one by one. I honestly do not mind, as everyone is so giddy about it, and not in a shitty way. You leave smiling. I think if anyone is really down and out in their life, they should just go here. We hit the grounds, and then went back to the city center, shopped Batik, and intense downpours began. Four hours of planning to hit a Sate Klathak joint, with no cars available, and around midnight, we ended up in the outskirts with Gisa, sipping on deep flavors. Indonesia is wonderful. Thanks to everyone who makes it so.

ARTMOSF at Ruang Gulma Collective

Spectacular show at Ruang Gulma Collective. Amazing space, great people. Ihsanul Fikri : "ARTMOSF, this time, is ecology. I use ecological elements. Sensor sensitive sound painting with pencil. Every scratch is the tone that represents composition of the plant. Fire reaction. I burned palm kernel as an icon for deforestation in Sumatra and Kalimantan, and they burn the forest. Minimal effect, only one, modulating pitch and shift."

Ikbal Lubys is from Malang, but this gig was at Ruang Gulma, in Yogyakarta, where he now lives. That bonkers instrument, handmade. "The guitar was made with really old railway wood. Built in 2013, it has a 4 piece knockdown system, for easier travel. The tuning is special, crossed strings, making two different areas of sound. Like percussion. Active and piezo pickups, but I never use piezo. It's better when played without guitar picks. I can get more than one sound if I turn between tuning system." This was a really great night. Off to KL for one night. This was an intensely wonderful trip, with a lot of layers, old and new.  Indonesia, once again, you've left me grinning with a full heart. 

Masakan Padang

Back in Harbin. Visions of Masakan Padang joints swimming in my head. This is Sumatran food. Eat it with your hands. Go in, and most of the time, you either choose, or they'll pile up all the dishes they have, in front of you. You're only charged for what you eat. Dangerous territory when you're hungry. It feels better than I thought it would, to be back in China. Familiar territory. Back to work on all fronts. Refreshed. Started a brutal new semester of school. Still working on the new film. Spinning plates. Plans I deemed set in stone, I'm already thinking of delaying. Strange calm with this decision. Not much else to do than keep rolling, do the best I can on it all, and let it play out how it may. 

Lots happening this year.  Thanks for following along.

Onward.

Free screening alert : Bristol, U.K. on January 26th!

Bristol, U.K. - The World Underground: Episode 1 will screen at the University of Bristol Arts Complex

19:00.  Free Entry.

Thursday, January 26th. Thanks to Simon Bishop and Guangzhou Underground 广州地下 for doing this. Very nice of you! 

I am in Indonesia right now.  Lots happening.  Some things (including a live recording of MDC in Jakarta) soon.

Cheers. <3

Depok, Indonesia meets Chicago, U.S.A. Arc Yellow's "Rad Pop Package" cassette, out now.

Here's some cool final news of 2016.  Depok, Indonesia ARC YELLOW have released a cassette on one of the greatest labels in Chicago, IL, U.S.A.  You can support this at Bandcamp by clicking here, or on the widget below!

I'll be heading down south in three weeks, to hit some shows in Kuala Lumpur, Jakarta, Bandung, and Jogja.  It's really about getting the hell away from Dongbei's crazy winter, and reconnecting to the scenes we fell in love with, in 2015.  I'll be storytelling whenever possible, and report when I get home.  

For now, enjoy this slice of 90's grunge, right here in 2016. 

Take care out there,

JY

A new interview from the U.K. courtesy of Overblown...

Hey.  There's a new interview from U.K. based Overblown Magazine.  Really kind words.  This is the current state of things.  I discuss people, places, and process.   A few tracks that have been sticking with me lately.

If you're reading this...thanks so much, again, for following along.  It means a lot, to inspire anyone, and it means the world to me.

You can read the full pieces right here.

 Still kicking.  24 hours to Chengdu.

Cheers,

JY

Incoming report : NU ART Festival - Chengdu!

Hey!  I'm finally getting the hell out of the frozen Northeast of Dongbei, and heading into some serious art and noise.  This is one of a few major trips planned to keep everything rolling, while you await Episode 2 of the project.  It's coming along, by the way, and should definitely be worth the wait.

This weekend, I'll head to Chengdu, one of my favorite cities.  There's, a, uh... "NU SPACE" in Chengdu, and they're holding a massive three day art and music festival!  This just so happens to align with our week trip!  How's that for cosmic?

There's a literal TON happening, including art, street shenanigans, and performances by artists across the globe.  Personally, I'm quite excited to see Wuhan's CHINESE FOOTBALL, but there's dozens of others I'm just looking into for the first time.  

If you're around Sichuan province, or have friends in the vicinity, I'd highly recommend heading over to the massive spread of information done by local writer KIWESE!  All the information you need is notated nice and tidy for you.

I'll have a report for you when we get back to Harbin.

See you this weekend, Chengdu!

BEIJING : Screening at Caravan - Monday, August 15

BEIJING : The World Underground - Episode 1 will screen at Caravan on Monday, August 15.  This was already happening, but I'll be in town to interview Noise Arcade anyway!  Lucky.  Come hang.

"The Astounding Underground of Indonesia"

Hey all,

I've finally published a staggeringly long article on Impose Magazine, about our trip to Indonesia.

There's a lot to explore here.  Head over and settle in.

An interview with Broke In Korea...

Interview in issue #22 of "Broke in Korea" alongside a mess of other great people, artists, bands, and things I had no idea about. Thanks to Kyle Decker, Jon Dunbar, and all who make this thing.  It's never easy, but always, mostly, sometimes worth it.  

Click HERE to read the whole deal, which I recommend you do.

Seahoarse : Live in Yogyakarta, Indonesia

While we were in Jogja, Indonesia, I came across something to sooth my rattled nerves caused by all those motorbike rides, harsh noise, and brutal punk rock.  They're called Seahoarse.  The band brings in chilled out, poppy songs that'll stick in your head for days.  Particularly the slow-burning "Submarine", which we'll likely use to the footage of for Episode 4 of the film project.  Seahoarse is a relatively new band, and this recording is only their 2nd show ever, so I'm interested to see where they go from here.  They're also ridiculously nice people, who came out to almost every gig I saw while spending a month in Java.  Perfect stuff to soak up all that coffee and sun if you're ever in Central Java. 

You can head to the band's Soundcloud page above, or cruise over to the bandcamp and listen to a live recording of their set at Suave Bar.

A missed opportunity, rectified.

Two days ago was Indonesia's 70th independence day. I was running on zero sleep, because we're trying to finally get back on a "normal" schedule. There was a parade right outside of our place, and the sounds went in one ear and out the other. It totally eluded me until I looked outside. Shit!

I ran downstairs in my pajamas and tried to get some good video. Wrong shutter speed. It's crap. I was pissed. So when Indra told me there was a parade today to kick off Festival Kesenian Yogyakarta, I beamed. I spent half the day mailing our Chinese VISA forms to Chicago via the only FedEx in Jogja. That was fun. Got home, grabbed my gear, and headed out early. Redeemed! Video should look amazing. Great day. Tomorrow : Jogja Noise Bombinghit the festival with Junichi.

Kombo #8

Back into the woods. Behind Wangi Artroom // Kedai Koppi Bell, Kombo 8 began.

 Junichi Usui from Tokyo joined in this time. He played a Shō, which if my research is correct, is derived from the Chinese 笙 (Sheng). Each musician played a set of their own, and then they melded together to form an improvised collaboration.

The final performer was a bit late, but got there, then taking the concrete space near the cafe. The sun was down then, so only the lanterns lit the electronics as Junichi came in with improv claps, metal clanks, his violin, the call to prayer over the loudspeaker and the crickets adding even more layers to it all. Another wildly imaginative day organized byJimi, Satya, and crew. Excellent.

Death to wussy hardcore!

Death to wussy hardcore. These kids get it, and they're not messing around. Last night's show was a nice mix, and they took over a dusty concrete parking garage near the university to do it. Skate punk. Psyche. I raised a few eyebrows at Energy Nuclear, who refreshingly went from tapping to doom in a few seconds. It was Cloudburst who started the circle pit. Gnarly, vicious, and even though there were just a few dozen kids, they got spinning quickly. A serious breath of fresh air to have Indra and Made grab the mic, scream along like they need it to keep breathing.

Focused mostly on video, though dual wielding long enough to snap this. The fear though, man. Flailing limbs and concrete. Always careful. A great night. Hell of a few weeks coming. Good to be back.